Advanced Rock Skills

Rock Skills 1: Lead Climbing & Advanced Movement Skills

• 8:00 AM meeting at local climbing site
• Welcome, introduction, goals & agenda
• Issue of required gear
• Review movement on rock while bouldering
• Review knots, basic belay systems and commands
• Review lead belaying, lowering & rappelling
• Learn how to safely thread the anchor
• Fall factor and multiplication of forces
• Lead climbing on single pitch sport routes
• Personalized coaching & movement skills
• Course debrief and wrap-up by 4:30pm

Rock Skills 2: Traditional Equipment & Improvised Anchors

• 8:00 AM meeting at local climbing site
• Review yesterday skills
• Introduction to traditional gear and ethics
• Placing traditional gear & anchors construction
• Fall factor and multiplication of forces
• Simulated traditional gear leads
• Personalized coaching & movement skills
• Additional skill if time permits
• Personal evaluation; recognizing strengths, weaknesses, comfort zones, instructor recommendations, etc.
• Course debrief and wrap-up by 4:30pm

Rock Skills 3: Multi Pitch Climbing Systems

• 8:00 AM meeting at local climbing site
• Review skills from day 1&2
• Systems and equipment for Multi-Pitch climbing
• Fall factor and multiplication of forces
• Lead climbing and belaying practice
• Multi-pitch climb and technical descent (multiple rappels)
• Course debrief and wrap-up by 4:30pm

Interested in more learning? We also offer various clinics on topics like: New Routing, Rock Rescue, Aid Climbing & Big Wall Techniques, etc. Contact us for more information

This is an intermediate to advanced course for climbers seeking a broader rock climbing skill set. Previous climbing experience on sport routes in the 5.8 to 5.10a range is required. Some exposure to traditional gear and crack climbing is very useful.

Advanced_rock-climbing-equipment-list.pdf

This course is available throughout Western Canada, contact us with a desired location. The West Kootenay courses will take place at one of the many local outdoor rock climbing sites in the Nelson & Castlegar area (Slocan Bluffs, Kinnard Bluffs, Koch creek Bluffs, Waterline, etc.). The area is blessed with a fine variety of outdoor rock climbing sites in pristine wilderness.

The group will be meeting with the instructor at 8:00 AM of the 1st day at pre-establish outdoor rock climbing site. We will go over last minute equipment issues, review the planed itinerary and update you with present conditions.

Spring and fall temperatures in the West Kootenays can vary wildly from 0C to +20C during the day. Conditions can change from warm sunshine to isolated showers quickly. Ensure you are dressed for all variations as temperatures, wind and precipitation tends to change within the day.

Summer (July and August) tend to be more predictable but can be very hot. The average mid-day temperature in the summer usually ranges from +20C to +30C. A lightweight rain and/or wind shell can come in petty handy in the event of an afternoon thundershowers. Be sure to pack a ball cap, sunglasses along with sunscreen and extra water during the summer season, see equipment list for specific details.

• Pre-course planning support
• Fully certified IFMGA and/or ACMG Alpine Guide or Rock Guide services
• 25 years of experience in the area
• Alternative plan based on current conditions
• Rope use & all technical equipment
• Park permits and Liability Insurance
• Emergency response plan
• Group safety equipment

Services NOT included:

• 5% gst tax
• personal clothing *see equipment list for more details
• technical gear including harnesses, helmets, belay device and rock shoes *SMG rentals $25/day
• personal lunch & snacks
• wilderness permits for national parks
• travel to meeting location and accommodation prior to field portion trip
• gratuities
• trip interruption, cancellation insurance or medical insurance
• additional costs incurred if changes made to itinerary due to weather

How experienced do I need to be?

On this course, candidates will benefit from a few years of sport lead climbing experience (5.8 to 5.10a) along with exposure to climbing with traditional gear on crack climbs. The more experience you have, the more you will benefit from this course.

Is it safe?

For all of our climbing programs and courses, SMG provides you with fully certified IFMGA/ACMG Mountain, alpine and rock guides. This guaranties you the highest safety standards in the industry. Rock climbing remains hazardous and while it is impossible to eliminate all the hazards, our guides will maximize your experience and greatly minimize the risks involved.

Can I rent some of the rock climbing equipment needed during the programs?

On this program we offer participants access to all the technical climbing and rescue gear at no extra charge. This includes; harnesses, helmets, rock shoes, belay device, carabineers and much more. Contact us for specific sizes and availability.

Where can I rent/buy climbing & outdoor equipment?

Here are a few outdoor stores in Nelson that supply good service and quality outdoor equipment and gear rental, please ensure you rent gear well in advance.

ROAM shop www.roamshop.com
Valhalla Pure Outfitters www.shop.vpo.ca