Climb the Crown of the Selkirks….
Mount Sir Donald rises to 3,284 meters (10,774 feet) as one of the most iconic peaks in British Columbia’s Selkirk Mountains, celebrated for its sweeping ridgelines and exceptional alpine granite. This striking spire draws climbers worldwide seeking a true mountaineering challenge.
Our 2- to 3-day guided ascent typically begins from Rogers Pass in Glacier National Park, with approaches via Hermit Meadows and alpine bivouacs under the stars. For experienced climbers, the classic Northwest Ridge (D- 5.4, 725m) offers one of North America’s finest alpine rock routes—long, exposed, and spectacular.
This is a high-commitment climb requiring solid fitness, prior alpine experience, and comfort with scrambling and multi-pitch terrain. While summit success can’t be guaranteed due to variable conditions, our low guest-to-guide ratio (1 to 2 guests per guide) ensures safety, personalized instruction, and the best possible chance of success.
Please contact us for more details.
This is a sample itinerary for a 2-day alpine-style ascent of Mount Sir Donald via the classic Northwest Ridge. Weather and conditions will influence timing and route decisions. This itinerary serves as a guideline only; actual plans may change.
Here is a sample itinerary:
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- Pre-trip Meeting: Participants meet the guide(s) at 5 pm in Revelstoke, Golden, or Rogers Pass for a final gear check, review of weather, avalanche and route conditions, and trip logistics. Liability waivers are signed. This trip is camping based.
- Day 1: Morning hike to bivouac site. Possible skills or scrambling afternoon.
- Days 2: Possible ascent day, weather permitting. Additional day possible.
This is an intermediate alpine climbing objective featuring sustained 4th class scrambling and multi-pitch rock climbing up to 5.4. Prior experience with alpine rock climbing and mixed terrain in the Canadian Rockies, Selkirks, or at a similar level is an asset. A high level of fitness and comfort on exposed ridges and technical terrain is an required.
Contact us for details
Mount Sir Donald is located in Glacier National Park in southeastern British Columbia, within the rugged Selkirk Mountains. The mountain rises dramatically above Rogers Pass, a major highway corridor between the towns of Revelstoke and Golden, BC, along the Trans-Canada Highway (Hwy 1).
The primary access point for climbing Mount Sir Donald is the Hermit Trailhead, located directly off Highway 1 within Glacier National Park. The approach to the mountain begins here with a steep hike to Hermit Meadows, followed by an alpine bivouac or high camp en route to the summit.
The closest communities are Revelstoke (1 hour west) and Golden (1 hour east), both of which offer accommodations, dining, gear shops, and transportation options. The nearest commercial airports are in Kelowna, Kamloops, and Calgary. Rental vehicles are available at all major airports. There is no public transit to Rogers Pass, so private or rental transportation is necessary.
Due to its elevation and exposed alpine setting, weather on Mount Sir Donald is highly variable and often severe. The mountain is influenced by fast-moving systems across the Selkirk Mountains, and conditions can change rapidly with little warning—making forecasts beyond 24 hours unreliable.
In the summer climbing season (July–September), daytime temperatures typically range from 0°C to 15°C, but nights at high bivouacs can drop below freezing. Snow, strong winds, heavy rain, and sudden temperature drops are all possible—even in mid-summer.
As with any high alpine objective, flexibility is essential. Climbers should avoid rigid timelines and be ready to adjust plans based on conditions. Pack for extremes: insulated layers, waterproof shells, and protective gear are critical to staying safe and comfortable in Mount Sir Donald’s unforgiving environment.
Services included:
Pre-trip planning support
Fully certified IFMGA and/or ACMG Alpine Guide or Mountain Guide services
20 years of experience in the area
Alternative plan based on current conditions
Rope use & all technical equipment
Backcountry kitchen & camp equipment
Park permits and Liability Insurance
Emergency response plan
Group safety equipment
Services NOT included:
5% GST tax
Technical gear including ice axes, crampons, harnesses, helmets, prussix, carabiner, climbing shoes etc..
Dinners & breakfast meals on trip
Personal clothing, overnight equipment, mountaineering boots *see equipment list for more details
Personal lunch & snacks
Travel to meeting location and accommodation prior to field portion trip
Gratuities
Trip interruption, cancellation insurance or medical insurance
Additional costs incurred if changes made to itinerary due to weather
How experienced do I need to be?
This is an intermediate alpine climbing objective featuring sustained 4th class scrambling and multi-pitch rock climbing up to 5.4. Prior experience with alpine rock climbing and mixed terrain in the Canadian Rockies, Selkirks, or at a similar level is essential. A high level of fitness and comfort on exposed ridges and technical terrain is required. Previous experience with multi-pitch climbing, route finding, and alpine bivouacking is an asset for a safe and successful ascent of Mount Sir Donald.
Is it safe?
On all our courses, SMG provides you with fully certified IFMGA/ACMG Mountain, alpine and rock guides. This guarantees you the highest safety standards in the industry. Mountaineering remains hazardous and while it is impossible to eliminate all the hazards, our guides will maximize your experience and greatly minimize the risks involved.
Can I rent some of the equipment needed during the programs?
On this program, we offer participants access to all the technical equipment at a discounted rate. This includes; harnesses, helmets, belay device, carabiners, ice axes, crampons and much more. Contact us for specific sizes and availability.
Where else can I rent/buy climbing & outdoor equipment?
There are many excellent outdoor stores in the Banff and Canmore area. Here are a few outdoor stores in the area that supply good service and quality outdoor equipment and gear rental, please ensure you rent gear well in advance.
Mountain Equipment Coop in Edmonton (780) 488-6614 www.mec.ca
Mountain Equipment Coop in Calgary (403) 269-2420 www.mec.ca
Rivers Oceans and Mountains (250) 354-2056 www.roamshop.com
Valhalla Pure Outfitters in Nelson (250) 354-1006 www.vpo.ca
Valhalla Pure Outfitters in Revelstoke (250) 837-5517 www.vpo.ca
Valhalla Pure Outfillters in Canmore (403) 678 5610 www.vpo.ca
