“Matterhorn of the Rockies”, where adventure meets altitude….
Mount Assiniboine, often called the “Matterhorn of the Rockies” for its striking pyramid shape, rises to 3,618 meters (11,870 feet) on the British Columbia–Alberta border in Mount Assiniboine Provincial Park. This iconic peak is accessible by foot or helicopter, making it a remote and rewarding destination.
Our 4-day trip typically includes mountaineering through dramatic landscapes, stays at backcountry campsites or the historic Assiniboine Lodge, and for experienced climbers, the chance to summit via classic mountaineering routes like the North Ridge (II 5.5). The journey promises breathtaking views, glacial terrain, and an unforgettable wilderness experience.
Due to variable weather and route conditions, we cannot guaranty our guests with a successful ascent. In general, the guests to guide ratio on Mount Assiniboine is 1 or 2 guest per guide. Previous climbing & mountaineering experience with our guides may affect this slightly. Please contact us for more info.
This is a sample itinerary for a 4-day alpine-style ascent of Mount Assiniboine via the North Ridge. Due to the remote location, complex terrain, and variable alpine weather, flexibility is essential. The weather and flying conditions will directly influence timing and route decisions. This itinerary is a guideline only; actual objectives and schedule may change.
Here is a sample itinerary:
- Pre-trip Meeting: Participants will meet the guide(s) at 4pm in Canmore for a final gear check. We will go over last minute changes (weather, avalanche & flying conditions) and logistics for the following day(s). We will also sign a liability waiver.
- Day 1: Arrive at Shark Creek helicopter Staging area for 9:30 am . Scenic helicopter flight into Mount Assiniboine and landing near Assiniboine Lodge. Approach to Hind Hut (4-5 hours).
- Days 2: Weather and conditions permitting, attempt Mount Assiniboine or alternative. (North Ridge)
- Days 3: Weather and conditions permitting, attempt Mount Assiniboine (North Ridge)
- Days 4: Very early breakfast and hike out to Assiniboine Lodge. Helicopter flight out to Shark Creek staging area.
This is an intermediate to advanced alpine rock mountaineering objective involving heaps of 4th class scrambling and short sections of rock climbing to 5.5. Prior experience alpine rock climbing and mix snow and rock climbing in the Canadian Rockies is essential. A high level of fitness is required, and previous technical climbing or high-altitude mountaineering experience is a strong asset for attempting Mount Assiniboine’s summit.
Mount Assiniboine Provincial Park is located in southeastern British Columbia, along the Continental Divide just west of the Alberta border and Banff National Park. The park is approximately 1 hours South of Canmore, Alberta via the Smith-Dorrien/Spray Lakes Road to the Mount Shark Trailhead or helicopter staging area. It is also accessible from Banff via Sunshine Village and from Invermere, BC, via longer backcountry routes.
The closest communities to the park are Canmore, Banff, and Invermere. There are commercial airports in Calgary, Cranbrook, Kamloops, and Edmonton. Rental vehicles are available at these centers. While there is no direct public transportation to the park, shuttle services operate from Calgary to Canmore and Banff.
Due to its high elevation and exposure to shifting mountain weather systems, the weather on Mount Assiniboine can be highly unpredictable. Conditions are often more severe than in the surrounding valleys and can change rapidly, making forecasts unreliable beyond 24 hours.
Temperatures on the mountain in August typically range from 0°C to 15°C during the day, but overnight lows can fall well below freezing, occasionally dipping below -10°C at higher elevations. Storms, strong winds, and even snowfall can occur at any time—even in mid-summer.
As with all alpine environments, flexibility is key. It’s important not to be too committed to a rigid itinerary, as weather windows may shift. Be fully prepared by packing appropriate clothing and gear for a wide range of temperatures, wind, and precipitation—ensuring you stay safe and comfortable no matter what conditions arise.
Services included:
Pre-trip planning support
Fully certified IFMGA and/or ACMG Alpine Guide or Mountain Guide services
20 years of experience in the area
Alternative plan based on current conditions
Rope use & all technical equipment
Backcountry kitchen & camp equipment
Park permits and Liability Insurance
Emergency response plan
Group safety equipment
Services NOT included:
5% GST tax
Helicopter access fees in and out
Technical gear including ice axes, crampons, harnesses, helmets, prussix, carabiner, climbing shoes etc..
Dinners & breakfast meals on trip
Personal clothing, overnight equipment, mountaineering boots *see equipment list for more details
Personal lunch & snacks
Travel to meeting location and accommodation prior to field portion trip
Gratuities
Trip interruption, cancellation insurance or medical insurance
Additional costs incurred if changes made to itinerary due to weather
How experienced do I need to be?
This is an intermediate to advanced alpine rock mountaineering objective involving heaps of 4th class scrambling and short sections of rock climbing to 5.5. Prior experience alpine rock climbing and mix snow and rock climbing in the Canadian Rockies is essential. A high level of fitness is required, and previous technical climbing or high-altitude mountaineering experience is a strong asset for attempting Mount Assiniboine’s summit.
Is it safe?
On all our courses, SMG provides you with fully certified IFMGA/ACMG Mountain, alpine and rock guides. This guarantees you the highest safety standards in the industry. Mountaineering remains hazardous and while it is impossible to eliminate all the hazards, our guides will maximize your experience and greatly minimize the risks involved.
Can I rent some of the equipment needed during the programs?
On this program, we offer participants access to all the technical equipment at a discounted rate. This includes; harnesses, helmets, belay device, carabiners, ice axes, crampons and much more. Contact us for specific sizes and availability.
Where else can I rent/buy climbing & outdoor equipment?
There are many excellent outdoor stores in the Banff and Canmore area. Here are a few outdoor stores in the area that supply good service and quality outdoor equipment and gear rental, please ensure you rent gear well in advance.
Mountain Equipment Coop in Edmonton (780) 488-6614 www.mec.ca
Mountain Equipment Coop in Calgary (403) 269-2420 www.mec.ca
Rivers Oceans and Mountains (250) 354-2056 www.roamshop.com
Valhalla Pure Outfitters in Nelson (250) 354-1006 www.vpo.ca
Valhalla Pure Outfitters in Revelstoke (250) 837-5517 www.vpo.ca
Valhalla Pure Outfillters in Canmore (403) 678 5610 www.vpo.ca
Monad Sport in Canmore www.monodsports.com
