Mount Athabasca: an accessible, breathtaking glacier scramble for aspiring alpine climbers in the Canadian Rockies…
Mount Athabasca, standing at 3,491 meters (11,453′) in Jasper National Park, is a favorite climb for those looking to experience glacier travel in the Canadian Rockies. The most common route crosses the North Glacier and involves hiking on snow and ice, with some moderate slopes and crevasse navigation. It’s a great introduction to alpine climbing for those comfortable with basic mountaineering skills like using crampons and ropes. The mountain offers incredible views but demands respect for changing weather and glacier hazards. It’s perfect for adventurous hikers ready to step up into true alpine terrain.
Here’s a sample 3-day alpine-style itinerary for Mount Athabasca. This plan assumes a guided climb with glacier travel, alpine climbing, and flexible summit days due to weather. Mount Athabasca (3491 m) is located in the Columbia Icefield region of Jasper National Park and is a classic introductory alpine objective with various route options, including the North Glacier, ramp route, Silverhorn, North face, etc.
Weather and glacier conditions play a significant role in how this itinerary unfolds. We will adjust the route and objectives based on safety, group fitness, and mountain conditions.
Here is a sample itinerary:
- Pre-trip Meeting: Participants will meet the guide(s) at 5:00 PM in Jasper, Lake Louise, or the Columbia Icefield Center for a gear check, trip briefing, and signing of liability waivers. For this trip, we will be camping near the road at the Columbia Icefields.
- Day 1: Skills day. We will be walking to a few different venues and work on skills like; crampons, ice axe use, rope handling, crevasse rescue, etc.
- Days 2: Possible ascent day or additional skills, weather dependent.
- Days 3: Possible ascent day or additional skills, weather dependent. Course wrap up by 4:30pm.
This is a beginner to intermediate alpine mountaineering program involving glacier travel, crevasse hazard, and snow and ice slopes up to 45 degrees. Previous mountaineering experience on snow and ice, comfort traveling on a rope team, and the ability to carry a heavy overnight pack for multiple days are an asset. Strong cardiovascular fitness is mandatory. Prior experience with ice axe and crampon use is essential; previous technical climbing or high-elevation experience is beneficial but not required.
Contact us
Mount Athabasca is located in Jasper National Park, Alberta, within the Columbia Icefield region of the Canadian Rockies. It sits just off the Icefields Parkway (Highway 93), approximately halfway between the towns of Jasper and Lake Louise. The Columbia Icefield Discovery Centre is the main staging area for climbs and is about 1 hour south of Jasper and 2.5 hours north of Banff.
The closest communities with full services are Jasper, Lake Louise, and Banff. The nearest commercial airports are in Edmonton (4.5 hours north) and Calgary (3.5 hours south). Rental vehicles are available at both airports. The Icefields Parkway is a scenic highway accessible year-round (weather permitting), but there is no public transportation directly to the Icefield Centre — a private vehicle is necessary.
Due to its location on the Columbia Icefield and exposure to high alpine conditions, the weather on Mount Athabasca is highly unpredictable and often more severe than in the surrounding valleys. Systems can move in quickly, and accurate forecasts are rarely reliable more than 24 hours in advance.
Even in midsummer, daytime temperatures on the mountain can range from 0°C to 10°C, while overnight lows frequently drop below -10°C with windchill. Snowfall, whiteouts, and strong winds are possible at any time of year. Flexibility in planning is essential, and climbers must be prepared for rapidly changing conditions. Bringing all required gear ensures you’re ready for any combination of temperature, wind, and precipitation.
Services included:
Pre-trip planning support
Fully certified IFMGA and/or ACMG Alpine Guide or Mountain Guide services
20 years of experience in the area
Alternative plan based on current conditions
Rope use & all technical equipment
Backcountry kitchen & camp equipment
Park permits and Liability Insurance
Emergency response plan
Group safety equipment
Services NOT included:
Dinners & breakfast meals on trip
5% GST tax
Technical gear including ice axes, crampons, harnesses, helmets, prussix, carabiner, climbing shoes etc..
Personal clothing, overnight equipment, mountaineering boots *see equipment list for more details
Personal lunch & snacks
Travel to meeting location and accommodation prior to field portion trip
Gratuities
Trip interruption, cancellation insurance or medical insurance
Additional costs incurred if changes made to itinerary due to weather
How experienced do I need to be?
This is a beginner to intermediate alpine mountaineering program involving glacier travel, crevasse hazard, and snow and ice slopes up to 45 degrees. Previous mountaineering experience on snow and ice, comfort traveling on a rope team, and the ability to carry a heavy overnight pack for multiple days are an asset. Strong cardiovascular fitness is mandatory. Prior experience with ice axe and crampon use is essential; previous technical climbing or high-elevation experience is beneficial but not required.
Is it safe?
On all our courses, SMG provides you with fully certified IFMGA/ACMG Mountain, alpine and rock guides. This guarantees you the highest safety standards in the industry. Mountaineering remains hazardous and while it is impossible to eliminate all the hazards, our guides will maximize your experience and greatly minimize the risks involved.
Can I rent some of the equipment needed during the programs?
On this program, we offer participants access to all the technical equipment at a discounted rate. This includes; harnesses, helmets, belay device, carabiners, ice axes, crampons and much more. Contact us for specific sizes and availability.
Where else can I rent/buy climbing & outdoor equipment?
Here are a few outdoor stores in the area that supply good service and quality outdoor equipment and gear rental, please ensure you rent gear well in advance.
Mountain Equipment Coop in Edmonton (780) 488-6614 www.mec.ca
Mountain Equipment Coop in Calgary (403) 269-2420 www.mec.ca
Rivers Oceans and Mountains (250) 354-2056 www.roamshop.com
Valhalla Pure Outfitters in Nelson (250) 354-1006 www.vpo.ca
Valhalla Pure Outfitters in Revelstoke (250) 837-5517 www.vpo.ca
Valhalla Pure Outfillters in Canmore (403) 678 5610 www.vpo.ca
