Explore the Birthplace of North American Mountaineering…
Renown for deep powder ski touring, Rogers Pass also hosts some of the best alpine rock climbing and mountaineering in Canada. Located inside Glacier National Park, Rogers Pass is in the heart of the Selkirk mountains of Southeastern British Columbia. Here, we offer 2 to 4 day guided programs for beginner to advanced mountaineers.
The good quality quartzite on the craggy summits of Roger Pass offer a challenge for climbers of all abilities. Some of the more popular peaks we often climb include; the Swiss peaks, mount Roger, mount Macdonald, Uto peak, Mount Sir Donald, mount Jupiter, mount Bonney and many more.
Below is a partial list of popular peaks and classic routes we recommend at Roger Pass:
- The Northwest Ridge of Mount Sir Donald (D-, 5.4)
- The West Ridge of Mount Tupper (PD, 5.6)
- The South Buttress of Mount Tupper (TD, 5.10+)
- The Swiss Peak Traverse (AD-, 5.0)
- The Southeast Ridge of Rogers Peak (PD+, 5.6)
- The Asulkan Ridge Traverse (PD+, 5.4)
- The Southwest Ridge of Mount Macdonald (PD+, 5.6)
- The Northwest Buttress of Eagle Peak (D, 5.8)
- The North Ridge of Mount Swanzy (AD+, 5.7)
- The Northeast Buttress of the Rampart (D-, 5.8)
Due to route length and arduous approaches, most peak ascents at Rogers Pass require a minimum of 2 days. That being said, it is often possible to ascend 2 routes over a 3 day period from a high camp.
In general, the guests to guide ratio is route specific. A 1 to 1 ratio is the norm on longer or more technical routes like; the Northwest ridge of Mount Sir Donald or the South Buttress of Mount Tupper. Previous experience climbing with our guides may affect this slightly. Depending on conditions, many of the less difficult or engaging routes can be done with a 1 to 2 ratio.
Please contact us for more info.
We offer 2 to 4 day Rogers Pass Alpine rock climbing programs. The length and itinerary of this program is flexible and depends on many factors including your interests, needs, route conditions, weather, and previous climbing experience.
The length of a chosen route(s) its difficulty will determine the number of days for the program. We will typically have a pre-trip meeting in Revelstoke or Golden the evening before your trip start and try to be back in town at a reasonable time on the last day of the program.
On this guided alpine rock program, prior traditional rock climbing and mountaineering experience are an asset. Good physical fitness is a must as it will give us the ability to move safely and efficiently in the mountains.
The difficulty of the routes we attempt will be based on your personal goals, interests and previous climbing experience.
Rogers Pass is located inside Glacier National Park in the heart of the Selkirk mountains of South-Eastern British Columbia. The Park headquarters is about 70 km East of Revelstoke or 80 km West of Golden along the Trans Canada HWY #1.
The nearest international airports are Kelowna BC. & Calgary, Alberta. From Kelowna it is just over a 3-hour drive East along HWY #1 the Rogers Pass and from Calgary, it is roughly a 4-hour drive West on HWY #1.
Due to the higher elevations, proximity to dominant winds and weather conditions, mountain weather is difficult to predict. It is most often worse than the weather in the surrounding valleys and can change quickly. It is really hard to predict for more than 24hrs ahead.
In summer you expect temperatures to be from 10 C to 28C in the day while overnight temperature can drop dramatically in the high alpine, even below zero. Temperatures are much colder at higher elevations, even in the summer. It is not uncommon to have overnight freezing temperatures in the alpine, outside a mountain hut or near a backcountry camp.
It is always an interesting challenge to know exactly what you are going to get, therefore is important to be flexible with timing and not too attached to a particular goal or objective. Be prepared by bringing all required items, this ensures you will be dressed for all variations of temperatures, wind, precipitation.
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How experienced do I need to be?
On this guided alpine rock program, prior rock climbing and mountaineering experience is an asset. Good physical fitness is a must as it will give us the ability to move safely and efficiently in the mountains. The difficulty of the routes we attempt will be based on your personal goals, interests and previous climbing experience. Previous traditional climbing experience, with or without a guide and the ability to climb with a small pack is required.
Is it safe?
On all our courses, SMG provides you with fully certified IFMGA/ACMG Mountain, alpine and rock guides. This guarantees you the highest safety standards in the industry. Mountaineering remains hazardous and while it is impossible to eliminate all the hazards, our guides will maximize your experience and greatly minimize the risks involved.
Can I rent some of the equipment needed during the programs?
On this program we offer participants access to all the technical equipment at a discounted rate. This includes; harnesses, helmets, belay device, carabiners, ice axes, crampons and much more. Contact us for specific sizes and availability.
Where else can I rent/buy climbing & outdoor equipment?
Here are a few outdoor stores in the region that supply good service and quality outdoor equipment and gear rental, please ensure you rent gear well in advance.
Vancouver:
Valhalla Pure Outfitters: (604)-872-8872 www.shop.vpo.ca
Mountain Equipment Co-op: (604) 872-7858 www.mec.ca
Kelowna:
Mountain Equipment Coop www.mec.ca
Golden:
Higher Grounds Sports www.highergroundssports.ca
Revelstoke:
Valhalla Pure Outfitters: (250) 837 5517 www.shop.vpo.ca
Canmore:
Valhalla Pure Outfitters www.shop.vpo.ca
Vertical Addiction www.vertical-addiction.com
Banff:
Monod Sports www.monodsports.com
Lake Louise:
Wilson Mountain Sports www.lakelouisewilsons.com
Calgary:
Mountain Equipment Coop www.mec.ca