Enjoy high alpine routes with an experienced local mountain guide in Kokanee Glacier Provincial Park…
Located an hour from Nelson in the southern Selkirk’s, Kokanee Provincial Park has unique mountaineering objectives for beginner to advanced climbers. The west side of the park offers some fantastic alpine ridges with glacier access.
The alpine climbs by day trip or multi-day adventure from a hut or chalet suite all ability levels. Alpine objectives on the Battleship, Esmeralda Peak, Grays Peak, Pyramid and Mt. Kitchner. Enjoy a specific day route or join a 2 to 4 day guided Kokanee Alpine Rock program with an experienced local guide. Multi-day programs can be based from the comfortable Kokanee Glacier Chalet, Silverspray Cabin or Woodbury Hut.
Summit Mountain Guides offer easy, moderate and advanced guided alpine rock climbing programs in this area. Some of the popular peaks and routes guided in Kokanee Provincial Park include:
Alpine Climbing Day Trips from Nelson
Grays Peak, SW Ridge (Grade III, 5.6)
Esmeralda Peak, SW Ridge (Grade III, 5.6)
Alpine Program from Kokanee Glacier Chalet
Battle Ship Traverse (Grade II, 5.6)
Pyramid Mt, NE Ridge (Grade II, 5.3)
Mt Kitchener, W Ridge (Grade II, 5.3)
Esmeralda Peak, SW Ridge (Grade III, 5.6)
Giant’s Knee Cap, SW Ridge (Grade 1, 4th class)
Complete Kokanee Glacier Traverse (Grade III, 5.3)
Grays Peak, North Face (Grade II, 4th class)
Kane Peak, W Ridge (Grade III, low 5th class)
Climbing from Silverspray & Woodbury Cabins
Cabin Peak, E Ridge (4th class)
Cabin Peak, Main Wall (Rock Routes, 10+)
Sunrise Mtn
Glacier View Peak
Moonlight Peak
For a taste of Kokanee Alpine Climbs, visit Gray’s Peak blog. Please contact us if you are interested in a specific route or a custom trip.
We offer 1 to 4 day Kokanee Glacier Alpine rock climbing programs. The length and itinerary of this program is flexible and depends on many factors including your interests, needs, and previous climbing experience.
The length of a chosen route(s), how accessible it is and its difficulty will determine the number of days for the program. We will typically have a pre-trip meeting the evening before your trip start and try to be back in town at a reasonable time on the last day of the program.
Below is sample itinerary for a 4-day program (3 field days).
Day 1, Pre-trip meeting; 7:00 PM in town (1 hour)
- Welcome, introduction, goals & agenda, waivers.
- Review of planned itinerary and current conditions
- Issue of required gear and session on packing strategy
Day 2, Drive-in, Hike-in and Climb
- 04:30 AM, meeting and drive
- 06:00 AM, at trailhead, hike -in
- 07:30 AM, at camp location, drop overnight gear
- 08:00 AM, hike to base of climb with a small day pack!
- Climb, climb, climb!
- 15:30 PM, top out, walk off & hike back to camp
- 16:30 PM, Back in camp for a great dinner and cozy night in the mountains
Day 3, Full Climbing day
- 06:30 AM, breakfast, hike-in to another classic alpine rock route
- 07:30 AM, start climbing
- Climb, climb, climb!
- 15:30 PM, top out, walk off & hike back to camp
- 16:30 PM, Back in camp for another great dinner and cozy night in the mountains
Day 4, Last climb and hike-out
- 06:30 AM, breakfast, hike-in to another classic alpine rock route
- 07:30 AM, start climbing
- Climb, climb, climb!
- 15:30 PM, top out, walk off & hike-out
- 18:00 PM, back at the parking, drive-out
- 20:00 PM, back in Nelson for a late dinner
On this guided alpine rock program, prior some rock climbing experience is an asset. Good physical fitness is also a must as it will give us the ability to move safely and efficiently in the mountains. The ability to climb with a small pack is required.
The difficulty of the routes we attempt will be based on your personal goals, interests and previous climbing experience.
Kokanee Glacier Provincial Park is located in the Kootenay district of South-Eastern British Columbia. The rock ridges near the glacier lie on the SE side of Valhalla Provincial Park, north of Nelson in the southern Selkirk Mountains. The trail head is accessible by vehicle via a forest service road. It is a 45-minute drive north east of Nelson or a four-hour drive south of Revelstoke.
Due to the higher elevations, proximity to dominant winds and weather conditions, mountain weather is difficult to predict. It is most often worse than the weather in the surrounding valleys and can change quickly as it is really hard to predict for more than 24hrs ahead.
In summer you expect temperatures to be from 10 C to 28C in the day while overnight temperature can drop dramatically in the high alpine, even below zero. Temperatures are much colder at higher elevations, even in the summer. It is not uncommon to have overnight freezing temperatures in the alpine, outside a mountain hut or near a backcountry camp.
It is always an interesting challenge to know exactly what you are going to get, therefore is important to be flexible with timing and not too attached to a particular goal or objective. Be prepared by bringing all required items, this ensures you will be dressed for all variations as temperatures, wind, precipitation.
How experienced do I need to be?
On this guided alpine rock program, prior rock climbing experience is useful. Good physical fitness is also a must as it will give us the ability to move safely and efficiently in the mountains. The difficulty of the routes we attempt will be based on your personal goals, interests and previous climbing experience. Previous traditional and crack climbing experience, with or without a guide and the ability to climb with a small pack is required for the more challenging routes.
Is it safe?
On all our courses, SMG provides you with fully certified IFMGA/ACMG Mountain, alpine and rock guides. This guarantees you the highest safety standards in the industry. Mountaineering remains hazardous and while it is impossible to eliminate all the hazards, our guides will maximize your experience and greatly minimize the risks involved.
Can I rent some of the equipment needed during the programs?
On this program, we offer participants access to all the technical equipment at no extra charge. This includes; harnesses, helmets, belay device, carabineers, ice axes, crampons and much more. Contact us for specific sizes and availability.
Where can I rent/buy climbing & outdoor equipment?
Here are a few outdoor stores in Nelson that supply good service and quality outdoor equipment and gear rental, please ensure you rent gear well in advance.
Rivers Oceans and Mountains www.roamshop.com
Valhalla Pure Outfitters www.shop.vpo.ca
