A magnificent alpine rock climb, one of the best of its class worldwide…
Rated III 5.10a, the South ridge of Gimli peak in Valhalla provincial park, is one of the best of its class anywhere in the world. This captivating 8 pitch alpine rock climb is wildly exposed, sustained but moderate. The climbing is varied and features steep cracks, grooves, chicken heads, and fingery walls. For an easier Valhalla classic, we offer alternative routes on Gimli, Midguard & Asguard Peaks. Join one of our Alpine guides and ascend classic Valhalla routes in style and good company.
Summit Mountain Guides offers 1 to 1.5 day guided Gimli peak programs from mid-June to late September. This route can be done in one long day by experienced climbers, most people will benefit and enjoy the overnight camp and a two-day program and discover why Norse mythology is involved in the naming of this aesthetic peak.
This is a 1 to 1.5 day Alpine Rock climbing program. The exact number of days will depend on participants needs, previous experience, weather, and route conditions. The climb itself is a 1-day affair, the access and approach times make this route a very full day. Less experienced climbers and people interested in a more relaxed adventure will enjoy the 1.5-day program. Below is a sample itinerary for both options:
1 Day Program
Pre-trip meeting evening before; 7:00 PM in town
- Welcome, introduction, agenda, gear & waivers.
- Review of planned itinerary and current conditions
Ascent Day
- 04:00 AM, meeting & drive
- 06:00 AM, at trailhead, hike -in
- 08:00 AM, at base of Gimli, start climbing
- Climb, climb, climb!
- 15:30 PM, at the top, walk off & hike-out
- 18:00 PM, back at the parking, drive-out
- 20:00 PM, back in Nelson for a late dinner
1.5 Day Program
Day 1: Hiking-in
- Pre-trip meeting; 12:00 PM in town
- Welcome, introduction, agenda, gear & waivers.
- Review of planned itinerary and current conditions
- 13:00 PM, drive to the Gimli trailhead, hike -in
- 16:00 PM, establish camp near the route
- 18:00 PM, dinner & preparation for the next day
Day 2: Ascent Day
- 06:30 AM, breakfast, short hike-in to the route
- 07:30 AM, at base of Gimli, start climbing
- Climb, climb, climb!
- 15:30 PM, at the top, walk off & hike-out
- 18:00 PM, back at the parking, drive-out
- 20:00 PM, back in Nelson for a late dinner
On this guided program, you must be an intermediate to advanced climber. Previous varied climbing experiences, with or without a guide, and the ability to follow traditional crack climbs in the 5.10a range with a small pack is required. Good physical fitness is also a must as it will give us the ability to move safely and efficiently in the mountains. Skills and fitness will determine whether we climb in 1 or 1.5 days.
Gimli Peak is located in the Kootenay district of south-eastern British Columbia. It lies on the southern border of Valhalla provincial park, west of Slocan Lake in the southern Selkirk mountains. The trail head is accessible by vehicle via the Bannock creek forest service road. It is a one and a half hour drive northwest of Nelson or a three-hour drive south of Revelstoke.
Due to the higher elevations, proximity to dominant winds and weather conditions, mountain weather is difficult to predict. It is most often worse than the weather in the surrounding valleys and can change quickly as it is really hard to predict for more than 24hrs ahead.
In summer you expect temperatures to be from 10 C to 28C in the day while overnight temperature can drop dramatically in the high alpine, even below zero. Temperatures are much colder at higher elevations, even in the summer. It is not uncommon to have overnight freezing temperatures in the alpine, outside a mountain hut or near a backcountry camp.
It is always an interesting challenge to know exactly what you are going to get, therefore is important to be flexible with timing and not too attached to a particular goal or objective. Be prepared by bringing all required items, this ensures you will be dressed for all variations as temperatures, wind, precipitation.
How experienced do I need to be?
On this guided program, you must be an intermediate to advanced climber. Previous varied climbing experiences, with or without a guide, and the ability to follow traditional crack climbs in the 5.10a range with a small pack is required. Good physical fitness is also a must as it will give us the ability to move safely and efficiently in the mountains.
Is it safe?
On all our courses, SMG provides you with fully certified IFMGA/ACMG Mountain, alpine and rock guides. This guarantees you the highest safety standards in the industry. Mountaineering remains hazardous and while it is impossible to eliminate all the hazards, our guides will maximize your experience and greatly minimize the risks involved.
Can I rent some of the equipment needed during the programs?
On this program, we offer participants access to all the technical equipment at no extra charge. This includes; harnesses, helmets, belay device, carabineers, ice axes, crampons and much more. Contact us for specific sizes and availability.
Where can I rent/buy climbing & outdoor equipment?
Here are a few outdoor stores in Nelson that supply good service and quality outdoor equipment and gear rental, please ensure you rent gear well in advance.
Rivers Oceans and Mountains www.roamshop.com
Valhalla Pure Outfitters www.shop.vpo.ca
