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Mount Waddington Main Summit
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Mid July to late August


On inquiry

Group Size
1-2 Guest per Guides
Skill Level

Mount Waddington Main Summit

This remote and demanding peak is a Canadian classic...

Mount Waddington, 4019m above sea level, is the highest peak in the coastal mountains of British Columbia. The main summit is technical and only accessible in summer by advanced mountaineers, for this program, we will ascend the “Bravo Glacier Route” (TD-, 50deg, 5.7, 2100m). This 7-day trip is available on demand from mid-July to late August.

While Waddington is the main goal on this trip, the area offers many alternative world-class alpine rock & mixed routes on neighboring peaks including; Bravo Peak, Spearman Peak, Combatant Mountain, Mount Tiedemann, and Asperity Mountain. Join us and discover the massive scale of the area while mountaineering on complex glaciers and climbing some of BC’s finest alpine granite.

If you are interested in a ski-mountaineering ascent to the Northwest summit of Mount Waddington click here.

The weather and conditions will have a direct effect on our exact itinerary, please note we can not guarantee specific timing and objectives due to the unpredictability of weather and flying into the mountains. Here is a sample itinerary:

  • Day 1 Participants will meet the guide(s) at 4 pm at the White Saddle B&B in Bluff Lake for a relaxing dinner followed by a final gear check. We will go over last minute changes (weather & conditions) and logistics for the following day(s). We will also sign a liability waiver.
  • Day 2 We will fly to Rainy Knob and establish our base camp. If time allows we will practice crevasse rescue skills.
  • Days 3-7 Depending on the weather, conditions, and participants, we will use the best possible window of opportunity to ascend Mount Waddington. Ideally, we will work ourselves up to it by acclimatizing on nearby summits depending on conditions and participants, we will consider: Mt Bravo and Mount Spearman.
  • Day 8 Our last day in the field, we will fly back to Bluff Lake in the afternoon and enjoy a refreshing homemade meal and last night at the White Saddle B&B.
  • After a luxurious breakfast the next morning, participants will start individual travels back home.

This is an advance mountaineering program.  You must have the ability to follow 5.7 alpine mixed terrain with mountain boots and crampons. Prior overnight mountaineering & winter camping experiences are very useful. Prior experience with Summit Mountain Guides is mandatory. Please contact us to discuss your background.

Mount Waddington and the Waddington Icecap are located in the Coast Mountains of South-Western British Columbia. We will access this pristine and remote mountain wilderness area by helicopter from Bluff Lake, B.C.

To drive to Bluff Lake, you will go through the central Chilcotin plateau, via Williams Lake, to White Saddle Air Services at Bluff Lake, where the helicopter is stationed.  We will help you team up with another guest or guide, good to ride share if possible as there is no bus service available.  Driving from Vancouver or Calgary, this trip could take up to 15 hours.  There is an airstrip at Anahim Lake via Pacific Coastal airlines, from there it is a 1.5-hour drive to Bluff Lake, transportation can be arranged depending on group size.

The Coast mountain weather can vary drastically in winter, it tends to be drier and more stable in mid to late Summer. In July and August, you can expect alpine temperatures to be from 0C to 15C during the day while in the early morning and at night temperatures could fall well below freezing. Statistically, advanced Summer offers the best possible weather for mountaineering in the Waddington area.

Despite the weather trends, visibility may be poor or whiteout conditions when snowing heavily or clear on bluebird days.  Ensure you are dressed for all variations as temperatures, wind and precipitation can change within the day.

  • Pre-trip planning support
  • Fully certified IFMGA guide service
  • All helicopter access fees to the Dias Glacier(in and out)
  • Camping equipment (tents, stoves and cooking supplies)
  • All Breakfast and Dinners while on trip
  • Group safety equipment (satellite phone, ropes, rescue kit, first aid, GPS, maps)
  • Avalanche safety equipment if required(transceiver, probe, shovel)
  • Alternative plan based on current conditions

Not included in price:

  • Your lunches, snacks
  • 2 nights & breakfast at the White Saddle B & B in Bluff Lake
  • Pre & post trip dinners at the White Saddle B & B in Bluff Lake
  • Personal equipment (personal ski & safety gear, sleeping bag, overnight gear, etc.)
  • Transportation to and from Bluff Lake
  • Additional costs for accommodation, transportation etc.. due to itinerary change due to weather
  • Trip cancellation insurance, adventure travel insurance, medical insurance

How experienced do I need to be?

This is an advanced mountaineering program on broken glaciers and mixed snow & ice terrain to 50 degrees with several pitches up to 5.7. Previous mountaineering experience on snow & ice, carrying big overnight packs and a high fitness level are mandatory. Previous technical climbing and high altitude mountaineering are an asset.

Is it safe?

On all our courses, SMG provides you with fully certified IFMGA/ACMG Mountain, alpine and rock guides. This guarantees you the highest safety standards in the industry. Mountaineering remains hazardous and while it is impossible to eliminate all the hazards, our guides will maximize your experience and greatly minimize the risks involved.

Can I rent some of the equipment needed during the programs?

On this program, we offer participants access to all the technical equipment at a discounted rate. This includes; harnesses, helmets, belay device, carabiners, ice axes, crampons and much more. Contact us for specific sizes and availability.

Where else can I rent/buy climbing & outdoor equipment?

Here are a few outdoor stores in the area that supply good service and quality outdoor equipment and gear rental, please ensure you rent gear well in advance.

Mountain Equipment Coop in Edmonton (780) 488-6614
Mountain Equipment Coop in Calgary (403) 269-2420
Rivers Oceans and Mountains (250) 354-2056
Valhalla Pure Outfitters in Nelson (250) 354-1006
Valhalla Pure Outfitters in Revelstoke (250) 837-5517

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